Standing on the sundeck of L’Amant cruise, I look at the rows of trees on both sides of the river with the sparkling light of fireflies appearing like falling stars. Here and there, white smoke curls up from a brick kiln and spreads out into the air. A church bell chimes entrancingly. I feel absolute comfort when going on board a cruise named L’Amant on the Mekong river in the southwest of Vietnam.
Text and photos: Duong Thuy
Touring on the water with L’Amant
It takes us an hour to travel from HCMC to Cai Be wharf. From the wharf, we hop onto a small sampan to take us aboard a white cruise ship in the Tien river. L’Amant attracts me with its styling, reminiscent of the early 20th century cruise boats and antique themed, luxurious features that promise a romantic journey for those who would like to delve into the ancient mysteriousness of the Mekong.
Actually, L’Amant is not an imposing vessel because it is designed to serve only 24 guests in a single tour. According to our guide, Lam, 17 crew are working on the cruise. The 39-m L’Amant features 12 cabins, a big restaurant, bar, sundeck and a souvenir shop designed in the French styles of the Indochina period. After wishing guests a delicious lunch, Lam reveals that we will enjoy a bicycle tour around An Binh islet of Vinh Long province at 3p.m.
Lying in the cool cabin and vaguely watching the sun glistening off the water’s surface, I fall into a pleasant light sleep. With the sounding of a gong, we wake up and follow Lam to a homestay house by An Binh islet to take the bikes. We excitedly ride along a small road around the islet that is as stunning as a water-color painting.
As the most striking islet of Vinh Long, An Binh is famous for its ancient Vietnamese houses nestled amongst lush green orchards. The islet has a beautiful pagoda called Tien Chau. According to Lam, in the past, fairies would bathe and play here in the moonlit night. To honor this peaceful landscape where the fairies appeared, local people built the pagoda with a wish that the fairies would protect them and bestow them all with safe and prosperous lives.
We ride the bike along lines of orchards and pass over a crescent concrete bridge. We are all surprised by the modern appearance of Tien Chau pagoda, it defies our expectation of an ancient structure. Then, we take another road to a famous longan drying area on the islet.
Returning to the boat, we enjoy dinner as we meander slowly upstream to Lap Vo – Sa Dec. In the starry night, we sit on the sundeck and watch the movie L’Amant, directed by Jean Jacques Arnault. The film evokes a strong emotion as old scenes of the Mekong reappear in fine and romantic detail.
The marks of L’Amant in Sa Dec
In our journey on board L’Amant, Lam tells us that the main highlight of the tour is the tourist site in Sa Dec. Since the release of the movie L’Amant in 1987, Huynh Thuy Le ancient house has been a must-see for French visitors. However, after many complicated procedures, the house was finally managed and exploited for tourists by Dong Thap Travel Company.
Situated near the market and overlooking Sa Dec river, the house features three compartments and wooden doors with intricate carvings. Currently, only a small fraction of the house remains, due to encroachment upon other parts of the structure. The house also retains some cabinets, a bed and inlaid altar.
Huynh Thuy Le was Vietnamese Chinese. The house is an interesting combination of Eastern and Western architectural styles. In the memoir of writer Marguerite Duras, she wrote that although she lived with her mother and two brothers in a neighboring area, she never visited the most beautiful house of Dong Thap at that time because Mr. Huynh Thuy Le did not allow it.
Leaving the L’Amant house, we visit a nearby bridge, where according to the movie, Marguerite Duras rides a bike to get a final glimpse of her lover’s wedding. Moving on, we travel to the school, where her mother was principal. As I have seen the movie the previous night, it is easy to realize that very little of the original scenery remains.
We decide to walk nearly 2km to visit the tomb of Mr. Huynh Thuy Le. Although the tomb was carefully built, it looks quite cold and cheerless. It is a pity that all wishes, love and fame finally fell into oblivion. Returning to the L’Amant cruise, each of us reflects on this as we continue to write our own love story.
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