8 DAYS IN TOHOKU

Travellive: As one of the members of an international media delegation we have the honor to be invited to participate in the program "Visit Japan 2014", The author, a representative from Travellive magazine, has recorded the following emotional impression after an 8- day journey exploring the exciting destinations in the Northeast of Japan.

The trip was organized by Tohoku District Transport Bureau and Tohoku Tourism Promotion Organization.

Text: Le Minh Phuong  Photos: Vatchrachai Triaroon - Photo journalist TravelGuide Thailand and adopted photos

Part 1: Sado - The Gold Mine Island

The Friendly and hospitable Japanese

On a 5 hour flight from Hanoi to Narita, Tokyo, I get acquainted with a Japanese person sitting next to me. Although she can’t speak English, and I can only speak one Japanese word - “Ohayo” (good morning), we still manage to make friends. She is always willing to help me when I need, when we are on board or when we queued at customs in Narita airport. We exchange email addresses and say goodbye to each other.

The second Japanese person I meet is Tetsuya Sato – a tour guide from Tohoku Department of Tourism. At first, I am a little bit disappointed to see that he does not look like the elegant and modern Japanese gentlemen that I usually meet in my work. Tetsuya is over 40 years old; he is wearing a rumpled white shirt, his hair is sticking slightly up and he is carrying luggage carts. Surely he smokes because I can easily catch the smell of it when standing near Tetsuya.

Shukunegi National Cultural Conservation

Tetsuya and I welcome one more female from Kuala Lumpur. We wandered arbound Tokyo for a few hours before catching an express train to Niigata. Because we do not have much time, we choose Tokyo Sky Tree as our stop. This is one of the tallest buildings in the world at( 634 metres). From here, we can easily catch the whole view of a vast and modern Tokyo. At the same time, we enjoy coffee and have a late lunch of ramen served with boiled eggs and fish sauce.

Tetsuya eats his portion and does not hesitate to eat the food that I cannot finish. After a few hours, I realize he is not a lonely kind, but a wholehearted and frank companion. I write about these two friends because they bring me a good impression of Japanese as  very genuine and hospitable people.

Romantic sunset in Niigata

We reached Niigata at around 6pm. Here, we encounter more reporters from Shanghai, Bangkok, Singapore and 5 more people who are interpreters and representatives from Tohoku Department of Tourism. We are arranged accommodation at Nikko Niigata hotel.

Shinano river

Niigata is a coastal city and , capital of the province of the same name. Niigata is famous for its premium sake wine, and it is also the homeland of many politicians. The city attracts tourists with its romantic scenery of the Shinano river, Japan's longest river flowing to the sea.

I'm lucky to be in the perfect place to admire the full beauty of the shimmering sunset on Shinano river. From the window in my room, I can take in the mighty but peaceful river flowing into ocean. I am captivated by images of white yachts with their grace and elegance. The light of the sunset dyed the whole city a beautiful hue glamorizing the cityscape glamorous before it slipped below the horizon.

Sado – The Gold Mine Island 

I sleep well at night after having delicious sake during dinner at a traditional restaurant in the city of Niigata the day before. I feel full of anticipation for the exciting journey ahead. At 8am, we take a Jetfoil – an express boat from Niigata port to Sado island. We get there after 1 hour and a half. We meet groups of elementary pupils in uniform visiting the island. They are queuing in line as their teacher gives guidance for the tour. They all look so lovely with round cheeks, fair complexion and sparkling eyes with joy on their faces.

From the port, we get on a coach towards the old gold mine on the island. After an hour sitting on the coach, I am totally conquered by the majestic scenery. The coach goes along the road of which one side is vast ocean and the other side is an old town with wooden houses built in the traditional Japanese style. In front of each house, there is a small garden in which colorful flowers and bonsai are grown. The air is so clean and fresh and the temperature is a pleasant 25 degrees Celsius. The sea is not ultramarine blue but stretching with a peaceful gray- blue. For me, the sea is so harmonious with the brown wooden houses, the fields of wild flowers and the lifestyle of the people on the island.

Arriving at Sado, most visitors will want to visit the Sado Gold Mine on the island. As estimated, 78 tons of gold and 2,330 tons of silver have been extracted from the mine over nearly 400 years. This used to be the largest gold mine in Japan, which offered jobs for thousands of workers. All mining activities in the mine were done entirely by manual methods. In 1989, the mining operation stopped.  

Sado gold mine

Today, Sado gold mine is a fascinating tourist attraction for most visitors to the island. The mine tunnel has been renovated, allowing visitors to move easily. The entire process of gold mining is illustrated with vivid lifelike wax statues. The statues can move, do their jobs and, exchange, chat. All these make guests feel like they are living in the era of the 17th - 18th .century. There is also a museum providing all information, documents, and photographs for tourists who are eager to learn.

Members enjoyed a very interesting activity: kayaking in the sea

After more than 1 hour visiting the gold mine, our team enjoyed a very interesting activity: kayaking in the sea. A Tub boat is a circular craft, made of wood. At first glance, it looks like a big wooden tub. The boat can hold 3 to 4 people, moving by one oar. Of note, the boatmen here are women wearing traditional dresses which appear unique and exotic. They are all made-up with powder-white faces and red lips. We have a chance to try controlling the boats. But although we try our best, not one of us can steer the boats in the right direction. The boats kept moving across the sea like stubborn crabs. Everyone is excited, and for me this is a great experience.

After lunch on the island, we continued on to visit Shukunegi village, a nationally preserved district. Previously Shukunegi was a village and residence of the talented ship builders of the Edo period (from the 17th century to the mid 19th century). In this period, Sado was once a large and bustling harbor, and was the mooring point for many big ships travelling the seas of Japan.

National Cultural Conservation -  Sado island

The village was is almost completely preserved. Today, many of the old houses are open to tourists. These houses still retain the entire architecture and household furniture which reflects the building skills of the early community. Coming to Shukunegi village, visitors can not help feeling wistful when walking in a quiet space covered by the shade of old houses, thought  to be a few hundred years old. Visitors can also see bushes of wild flowers growing by the creeks and flowing around the village as they walk along the mossy paths.

The day went by so fast; there wasn’t enough time  for us to visit all the interesting attractions on the island. If I have an opportunity to return to Sado, I wish I hope I have enough time to watch Noh, have a bath in hot springs, go hiking and enjoy the great seafood.

Goodbye Sado!

 Further information:

+ Travel by:

From Tokyo to Niigata: you can take Jyoetsu Shinkansen Express train. It takes from 130 minutes to 160 minutes to get to Niigata station. The ticket is 10050 Japanese Yen for a non-reserved seat, and an extra 700 Yen for a reserved seat.

From Niigata to Sado island: you can take a Jetfoil Express which takes you about 65 minutes to get to Royotu port in Sado. The price is 6520 Yen for a one-way ticket, or , 11820 Yen for return tickets. Or you can take slower ferry to Royotu port in Sado, which takes you 150 minutes and costs you 2510 Yen for one-way.

+ Hotel:

- Nikko Niigata: 5-1 Bandaijima, Chuo-ku, Niigata-shi, 950-0078 Niigata.

- Hotel on Sado island: Hananoki – The hotel in traditional style. Tel: 0259-86-2331. Fax: 0259-86-2339.  Website: www.sado-hananoki.com

+ Tourist destinations on Sado island

Sado gold mine, Shukunegi National Cultural Conservation, Sado Museum, Noh Theatre, Kompon- ji Temple, Sado Toki forest, sunflowers field (visit in Summer)

+ Sport activities on Sado island

Tub sailing, climbing the Ohno and Futatsu, diving, cycling and sightseeing, etc…

+ Cultural attractions

Kanburi Festival: This sports festival is held every year in September. This event attracts Japanese and international athletes.

Sado Okesa: In this event, Japan’s typical folk songs and dance are performed. You can see Okesa all over Sado.

Puppets (Bunya Ningyo): Various puppet performances are shown in this theatre which was built in modern times.

+ Japanese cuisine:

Arriving Sado, visitors should try sake with  Japan’s typical foods such as Kurosaki Chamame, wappa rice, Nanban shrimp, Koshihikari rice, Kanburi (Japanese amber jack), Kaki (oysters), Ika (squid) etc…